Known as the ‘city of golden spires’ and the ‘mother of cities’, Prague draws you in with her meandering, magical, medieval streets and passageways. Best explored on foot, the city radiates a gothic charm infused with colourful grand buildings that would not be out of place on the splendid Parisian boulevards.
Prague is best known for the Charles Bridge, Astronomical Clock and the castle that dominates the northwestern ridge of the city. But the city is so much more. It is the winding streets of Malá Strana, the cluttered and chaotic Jewish Cemetery and the unknown lurking around every corner that really gives this city a beautiful soul.
The Charles Bridge is the lynchpin of any tourist experience. The now pedestrian only bridge was built by Charles IV and features numerous religious statues and beautiful lanterns. Protected by towers on either end, the bridge had a military role to play in past centuries but it is now the domain of tourists and small artisans selling their crafts.
The Charles Bridge is best explored at a slow walk, observing the statues, people and most importantly the views of the Vltava River, Prague Castle and numerous spires. This bridge has as many emotions as there are types of Czech weather and can be haunting in mist, romantic in snow and downright unpleasant in the howling rain.
Stretching away from the eastern side of the bridge is the ‘Old Town’. All streets will eventually take you to Staromêstské námêstí, the main square with the fabulous Astronomical Clock. This dual faced clock is not located atop the clock tower, but rather around the side of the tower and features an astronomical dial, hourly ‘walk of the apostles’ and a calendar dial.
Every hour a massive crowd forms below the clock to watch the new hour chime in. When the clock strikes the hour a skeletal figure representing Death begins ringing a bell suggesting that it is time go – in the eternal sense of the word. The other figures next to the clock shake their heads in disagreement while the 12 Apostles parade in front of two open windows above the clock.
After watching the clock’s show it is well worth the 100CZK (about £4) to ascend the tower itself. After taking the lift shaped like an old glass internal mail tube or climbing the sloped ramps and tight metal spiralled staircase you will be greeted with phenomenal views in all directions over the red terracotta rooftops. Although constantly bumped in the tight tower walkway, seeing this magical city from above is not to be missed, nor rushed. Anyone who happens to be atop the tower at the strike of an hour will have the pleasure of seeing the trumpeter play and wave to those massed below.
Wandering out of the Old Town Square it is easy to make your way to Vaclavske námêstí (Wenceslas Square). Although lined with souvenry shops and casinos the square is truly awe-inspiring. Stretching uphill nearly half a mile to the grandiose neoclassical Czech National Museum, this sprawling expanse of space leaves you unsettled following the cramped streets of the older areas of the city. A former horse market, the square dates back to the 14th century and is the traditional gathering place for large scale demonstrations and celebrations.
Beyond this square to the south lies the 10th century fortress of Vyšehrad and the more modern sections of the city. Ubiquitous amongst these areas are the concrete tower blocks of any major western city. Yet, unlike many ‘capitalist’ cities, many suggest that these tower estates have traditionally engendered a strong community setting and the residents take great pride in their buildings, encouraging those of all economic statuses to remain within these blocks.
Heading out of the Old Town Square in the opposite direction from Wenceslas Square you encounter the old Jewish Ghetto of Josefov. The centrepiece of this small sub-neighbourhood of Old Town is the old Jewish Cemetery. The burial ground dates from the 15th century and entombs as many as 100,000 people in 12 layers deep with perhaps 12,000 visible tombstones. Some stand proud and vertical, others jumble together like people huddling under an umbrella. The first feeling you get is of chaotic neglect, yet after delving deeper into the labyrinth you come to see a beauty in the haphazard nature of this sacred ground.
Surrounding the cemetery are several synagogues including the majestic Spanish Synagogue covered floor to ceiling in ornate paintings. Josefov is also home to the Old-New Synagogue, the oldest synagogue still being used in Europe today. Within this area you often come across three short stairs across the street at intersections which demarcate the old city walls.
Nestled between the river and the Castle is Malá Strana (Lesser Town). It is a lovely place to stay as the area is quieter and slightly less touristy than the other side of the river. There are numerous little streets and squares that beckon to be explored and post-dinner strolls are particularly worthwhile.
Leading up from Malá Strana are the Old and New Castle Steps. Whichever set of steps you choose to climb, amazing panoramic views of the city stretch out below the Castle walls. The Prazskí hrad (Castle) isn’t a castle with turrets and ramparts as you may expect, but rather a series of palaces, walls and gardens atop the hill. The centrepiece of the castle area is St Vitus Cathedral which towers above the surrounding buildings and is visible from almost anywhere in the central areas of Prague.
From the castle it is a lovely walk through yet more narrow, cobblestoned streets to the Stanhov Monastery, home to a magnificent library and locally brewed beers. The monastery borders Petrín Hill, a large wooded park that is perfect for walking amongst fallen autumnal leaves and sitting on benches enjoying the sun-speckled city below.
These are just some of the many wonderful experiences, places and vistas to be enjoyed in this magical city. Whatever you have time to explore, be sure to stop on the Charles Bridge and rub the statue of St John of Nepomuk which legend says will bring you back to Prague someday…
