Forts, Clay and Old Villages

Another day, another fort. Today we ventured all the way to Jabrin; on the other side of the mountains. This was a nice mixture of the size and complex nature of Rustaq, with the furnishings of Nakhal, so we had a very enjoyable time exploring every nook and cranny.

The boys even had time for a quick pass or two.

Thankfully just as we were walking out the door, a large tour group of older Germans were being let off; and they would have certainly fouled up our peace and tranquillity whilst exploring this wonderful fort.

We then started backtracking to Muscat, stopping next in the town of Bahla. Here too is a fort; under renovation; and a souq; closed because it was midday. The real draw however is the handmade pottery which is made in small shops that are well hidden beyond the main town centre. Walking past the old kilns that dominate the threadbare yard, we made our way to the dark and dusty workshop. The man working the wheel was expertly moulding some sort of vessel, it was too early in the process to determine what it would ultimately become.

We then retired to the ‘salesroom’, which was just a low-slung, dirt-floored storage area with different finished water jugs and other paraphernalia laying about.

The water jugs are quite exquisite in their simplicity and after finding just the right samples, we watched as the potter expertly finished them off with a hand tied rope from which to hang them.

From Bahla we headed for the classically medieval village of Misfah. Set on a hill/cliffside over-looking the entrance to a gorge, Misfah is a mixture of still inhabited and partially destroyed village.

With snaking passageways heading ever downwards, you walk under, around and sometimes through structures all leading to the falaj and terraced plantations set below the village. We walked a ways past the green luscious plots and enjoyed the peaceful breeze wafting up from the canyon below.

The last stop of the day was the old village of Tanuf set at its entrance of Wadi Tanuf. We wandered briefly up the wadi, but discovering nothing of any true interest, returned to the ruins in time for the sunset.

The village was bombed by the British RAF at the bequest of the former sultan during the Jabel War of the mid-fifties, when the imams of the interior attempted to overthrow the sultan. Though the villagers were forced to vacate the village most of the structures still stand in some shape or form perched atop the hill, you get great views down onto the village below your feet and the surrounding mountains; perfect for a sunset.