Footie, Fortresses and Food

After the peace and quiet of Eastern Finland, we re-entered the "civilised" world in the guise of Helsinki. We dropped off our bags a plenty at our friend (and Cora’s summer course tutor) Marika's flat and then returned the rental car. Finding ourselves mere pedestrians once more, we ventured into the blazing mid-afternoon sunshine. Stopping briefly into a stone church, yes I know first wood now stone, very practical builders these Finns, we meandered back towards the waterfront from which we had driven by.

As it was Helsinki Day, which is apparently to commemorate the beginning of the building of Helsinki many centuries ago, there were several stages throughout the public squares, each filled with live music and throngs of sun-soaked people. We enjoyed a light dinner and then led on by a rather excitable CW, went to a sports bar to watch the US' first group game at the World Cup. To those who don't know much about football, soccer to ye heathens in the States, you are not alone. After watching the embarrassment that was our 3-0 loss to Czech Republic, I came to the conclusion the US' own players don't even know much about the sport. Although they do apparently know more than Bruce Arena, the coach, who showed amazing smugness and stupidity throughout the tournament and is now probably going to be looking for a new job. Sorry, World Cup tangent over with. (Photo from Tracy Press Online by Elise Amendola/AP)

The next morning was filled with the sounds of a city, something Cora and I are not used to after our nine months of country village living. However, it was another gorgeous day, something that apparently is rare for Finnish summers, and we headed out early for the waterfront market. Doing the obligatory shopping for family and friends took a bit of time, but only the male member of our triumvirate seemed bothered by this turn of events. Of course we were all made happier by our purchase of fresh cherries which we enjoyed on the short ferry ride, past sailboats and tankers alike, out into the Gulf of Finland and to an old fortress island.

Actually to be precise it is six islands all in very close proximity to one another and currently populated by 850 people, many more of course on sunny days in summer. We had a nice picnic surrounded by layabouts, such as young mothers, students and other aimless souls. After lunch we wandered out and about past the dwellings and old battlements to the outer reaches of the island complex, which is rather rocky and pockmarked with old tunnels and cavelike areas. Strewn about the rocks beneath the cliffs were bodies re-enacting a ship wreck. Well no, actually they were sun-bathers, I swear the Finns see sun and they just stop doing whatever they were doing to soak it in. Not that I can blame them, I would be desperate for the sun too if I had to endure such long dark winters.

Anyway, after a very refreshing soft-serve ice cream, we returned to the mainland and ventured up to the main Lutheran church in Helsinki. This starkly white structure is set above a large public square and is easily seen from not only many of the surrounding streets, but also far out to sea. It was glistening in the late afternoon sun in much the same way that Sacre Coeur on Montmarte does. We traipsed past the remnants of the sand castle built for Helsinki day and up the rather precipitous stairs to the front doors. Upon entering we were once again greeted by the silent simplicity of Finnish Lutheran churches. However, unlike Kerimaki, this one was crawling with cruise ship passengers on their day furloughs.

With the afternoon fading imperceptibly into evening we wandered towards the inner waterway close to Marika’s flat and spent a pleasant hour or so with beers and a baguette. While we could have easily passed out from the day’s exertions, we did not want to imitate the couple twenty feet from us; utterly intoxicated and laying unconscious in the grass. Of course the guy had his priorities straight. One arm cradling his girlfriend, one hand ensuring that the still half full bottle remained upright. We retreated from the less than idyllic lovers to enjoy a quiet meal at home and a rather hellish fight to get all our belongings into our baggage. In the end Cora triumphed over the luggage, as only she can. If it were me doing the packing we would have had to buy another couple of suitcases to get it all home. While it was a quick visit, it was a good one and Marika was an excellent tour guide and a very gracious host to whom we must give our hearty thanks.