Footie, Fortresses and Food

After the peace and quiet of Eastern Finland, we re-entered the "civilised" world in the guise of Helsinki. We dropped off our bags a plenty at our friend (and Cora’s summer course tutor) Marika's flat and then returned the rental car. Finding ourselves mere pedestrians once more, we ventured into the blazing mid-afternoon sunshine. Stopping briefly into a stone church, yes I know first wood now stone, very practical builders these Finns, we meandered back towards the waterfront from which we had driven by.

As it was Helsinki Day, which is apparently to commemorate the beginning of the building of Helsinki many centuries ago, there were several stages throughout the public squares, each filled with live music and throngs of sun-soaked people. We enjoyed a light dinner and then led on by a rather excitable CW, went to a sports bar to watch the US' first group game at the World Cup. To those who don't know much about football, soccer to ye heathens in the States, you are not alone. After watching the embarrassment that was our 3-0 loss to Czech Republic, I came to the conclusion the US' own players don't even know much about the sport. Although they do apparently know more than Bruce Arena, the coach, who showed amazing smugness and stupidity throughout the tournament and is now probably going to be looking for a new job. Sorry, World Cup tangent over with. (Photo from Tracy Press Online by Elise Amendola/AP)

The next morning was filled with the sounds of a city, something Cora and I are not used to after our nine months of country village living. However, it was another gorgeous day, something that apparently is rare for Finnish summers, and we headed out early for the waterfront market. Doing the obligatory shopping for family and friends took a bit of time, but only the male member of our triumvirate seemed bothered by this turn of events. Of course we were all made happier by our purchase of fresh cherries which we enjoyed on the short ferry ride, past sailboats and tankers alike, out into the Gulf of Finland and to an old fortress island.

Actually to be precise it is six islands all in very close proximity to one another and currently populated by 850 people, many more of course on sunny days in summer. We had a nice picnic surrounded by layabouts, such as young mothers, students and other aimless souls. After lunch we wandered out and about past the dwellings and old battlements to the outer reaches of the island complex, which is rather rocky and pockmarked with old tunnels and cavelike areas. Strewn about the rocks beneath the cliffs were bodies re-enacting a ship wreck. Well no, actually they were sun-bathers, I swear the Finns see sun and they just stop doing whatever they were doing to soak it in. Not that I can blame them, I would be desperate for the sun too if I had to endure such long dark winters.

Anyway, after a very refreshing soft-serve ice cream, we returned to the mainland and ventured up to the main Lutheran church in Helsinki. This starkly white structure is set above a large public square and is easily seen from not only many of the surrounding streets, but also far out to sea. It was glistening in the late afternoon sun in much the same way that Sacre Coeur on Montmarte does. We traipsed past the remnants of the sand castle built for Helsinki day and up the rather precipitous stairs to the front doors. Upon entering we were once again greeted by the silent simplicity of Finnish Lutheran churches. However, unlike Kerimaki, this one was crawling with cruise ship passengers on their day furloughs.

With the afternoon fading imperceptibly into evening we wandered towards the inner waterway close to Marika’s flat and spent a pleasant hour or so with beers and a baguette. While we could have easily passed out from the day’s exertions, we did not want to imitate the couple twenty feet from us; utterly intoxicated and laying unconscious in the grass. Of course the guy had his priorities straight. One arm cradling his girlfriend, one hand ensuring that the still half full bottle remained upright. We retreated from the less than idyllic lovers to enjoy a quiet meal at home and a rather hellish fight to get all our belongings into our baggage. In the end Cora triumphed over the luggage, as only she can. If it were me doing the packing we would have had to buy another couple of suitcases to get it all home. While it was a quick visit, it was a good one and Marika was an excellent tour guide and a very gracious host to whom we must give our hearty thanks.

Another adventure begins

Though my adventures in summer school in Jyväskylä are over, we now embark together on a new journey exploring more of Finland. We spent Friday afternoon (June 9th) after class wandering around Jyväskylä and introducing CW to most of the people I have spent the last month with. Had some pizza (see post here for a picture ) and then separated so the guys could watch the World Cup while the girls went for our last sauna together. After scrounging up leftover food creating a truly international pot luck dinner, we went out to the Giggling Marlin, the same club we went to for my birthday, for some really great live music and dancing. We said our farewells around 4am, in the almost sunny streets of Jyväskylä surrounded by the usual heavy Finnish drinkers. Had a couple of hours of sleep before seeing off Sabine and Adeline and packing up and leaving our once again stark rooms to head east for about 200km in our rented Citroen.

Our destination was the region of Savonlinna, more specifically Savonranta, where we had rented a small cottage for a couple of days before heading down to Helsinki and onwards. Driving through Finland was just beautiful - lakes everywhere with the sun glistening off the water and gorgeous birch and fir trees in between and warnings of possible moose crossings scattered along the roadside as we drove.

Our cottage was set in similar surroundings on a small point into a lake hardly populated by anyone (see pictures below - cottage set back a bit behind trees). We had everything we needed including the obligatory sauna as all Finnish cottages do, a small dock for easy access to the water in between sauna sessions, a grill, a firepit on the edge of the water, a nice dual swing and even a little rowboat. We took advantage of everything, especially the sauna seeing as though it was CW's first time (and which he really liked), and thoroughly enjoyed the peaceful getaway this little cottage set in the woods on the lake provided us.

While there we took a drive into Savonlinna where there is a beautiful 15th century castle that is now home to an annual summer opera festival.


(See http://snor.joensuu.fi/olavinlinna/index_english.htm for more info and images)

We had a wonderful personal tour where we learned lots of really unique things about the culture there during those times. Most memorable included the fact that royals would only shower twice a year due to the belief that a layer of dirt would keep away any diseases. Given the cold temperatures in winter, however, aside from the fact that they lived in a big, damp, dark stone castle but the fact that they lived in Finland where temperatures severely plummeted, you can also imagine the layer of little friends that would have created nice homes in the layers of fir they wore. We also learned that Finnish would sleep sitting up during the Middle Ages so as to prevent the devil from seeing them in this vulnerable position and take their souls.

After Savonlinna, we went to Kerimaki where we visited the largest wooden c hurch in the Christian world.

According to their website, 'the church of Kerimäki is the world’s largest Christian wooden church and has the most spacious interior in Finland. It is 45 meters long, 42 meters wide and 27 meters high. The height of the dome is 37 meters. There are altogether 1670 metres of pews and a seating capacity for over 3000 people. Including standing room, the church can accomodate almost 5000 people. But why such a large chuch? The explanation does not lie in a mix-up between feet and metres, since the dimensions are in accordance with the original plan which is stored in the archives of the church. Rev. Fredrik Neovius, who held office in the 1840s, was of the opinion that half of the townsfolk should be able to meet for religious worship at one time. Festival days and market days also had an influence on the scale of the church. Big gatherings were a part of the everyday life and it was only natural to meet for worship on market days. The original idea was to gather all the people for worship at one time'.



It was really quite unique and spectacular at the same time... beautiful yellow wood siding and green domes, columns inside painted to look like marble and chandeliers with delicate and simple coloured flowers. The bell tower was separate and provided wonderful views from 'above' of the church itself and the surrounding lake and area.