Seeking a last minute escape and a way of using some free train tickets, we sought out a beach escape on the South Coast. We had no real idea of where we wanted to go, simply that it should be walking distance to the beach and accept a dog - obviously!
As of Boxing Day we had not found anything, but at about 6pm we found 'The Warrens' - a lovely little beach themed house in the village of Camber, near Rye. We phoned the owners, who were thoroughly enjoying their Boxing Day meal - and explained we were looking for a last minute getaway. They were happy to let us have the whole four bedroom house for a very good deal starting the next morning. As you can see - it was a lovely little hideaway.
Camber Sands is a 2.5 mile long and half a mile wide (at low tide) sandy beach with a long stretch of dunes as well. It is quite a busy place in the summer, but the last week of December is pretty empty - mostly populated by just dog walkers and windsurfers.
The solitude was exactly what we wanted in order to have some good quality beach time with Guinness. Besides the extreme wind, which caused some serious ear flapping, he was extremely excited to run, swim and chase his toys on the beach.
He particularly enjoyed playing in the dunes - see video at the end of this post for some live action!
Even though we were only down in Camber for two days it was very peaceful and a lovely way to get away from it all.
Here are a few videos of our excursions on the beach and in the dunes, enjoy!
For more videos of Guinness check out our shared folder on dropbox - drop us an email if you didn't get the link
Taking advantage of Cora having a work conference there, we fulfilled a long time wish to visit Krakow in September. Krakow is a very compact city that you can easily explore by foot. The weather was glorious, so as we discovered different parts of the city we also took advantage of the many outdoor cafes in the Polish sunshine.
Krakow’s historic centre is an UNESCO World Heritage Site and the Main Market Square, the castle on Wawel Hill and old Jewish district of Kazimierz are filled with little lanes and random, alluring sites. We settled into our little bed and breakfast near the centre, and were politely greeted in Polish. This ended up being a regular occurrence, as many saw our Polish/Ukrainian surname and assumed we were Polish.
Having had a really busy few weeks leading up to this short visit, we didn’t venture far off the beaten path and stuck to many of the main sites. We discovered the castle and its surroundings, some of the old synagogues and Jewish Cemetery and generally enjoyed the sights, sounds and food of Krakow.
We had a great time the first night with some of Cora’s colleagues from the conference as we found ourselves in a random little bar with Singer sewing machines dotted all over the place and deep red toned antique decorations. The place was packed but people were still dancing to the most eclectic mix of music we had ever heard. They played reggae and Spanish, pop and rock and some quite upbeat Gypsy music. At one point it even sounded like they were playing Fiddler on the Roof! It was close to 4am before we wandered home having had a great night out!
On one day we wandered across the river to the old industrial district and found the old Schindler Factory, which now houses a fabulous museum to Krakow during World War II. It features elements of Oscar Schindler’s story and how he saved close to 1,200 Jews by employing and shielding them from the concentration camps. But it also showed what everyday life was like and how the Poles, of all religions, coped with, and fought against the Nazi and then Soviet occupations. It was a wonderfully well put together museum that tried to show you through all your senses what life was like during that time, and we definitely recommend it to any future visitors.
If the weekend had a theme, it was probably best summed up by raspberries. Malina is the derivative for raspberries and there are lots of different foods, drinks and even a restaurant using malina in some way or the other. So we had delicious raspberry beer, raspberry biscuits and a raspberry honey sauce on the meat platter we shared at the Miod Malina restaurant. It was a really nice way to connect to an ancestral land and made us feel a little bit special each time we saw it on a label or menu.
After the fun, frivolity and excitement of Austin and Kay’s wedding in July, we hired a car and drove three hours east to Lake Tahoe. Both of us were craving mountains and some time surrounded by nature, and Tahoe came through in spades.
We found ourselves a quaint little studio flat over a couple’s garage and almost immediately headed down to their private dock to take in the full view of the lake. Being situated on the North Coast, we had spectacular views straight down the lake towards the Nevada-California state line. We were lucky enough to see snow capped peaks, as the Sierra Nevadas had encountered a very heavy winter, one that afforded the ski resorts to stay open until July 4th!
The scope of Lake Tahoe is quite incredible. About 22 miles long by 12 miles wide at its maximum points, it has a surface elevation of 6,225 feet making it the largest alpine lake in North America. It has an average depth of 1,000 feet, but the water is so clear and clean that you can routinely see to depths of 80 to 100 feet! Lake Tahoe holds enough water that if it were emptied out, it would cover the entire state of California to a depth of five feet. In short, Lake Tahoe is a big, deep, gorgeous clean body of water.
We spent the two full days we had driving from beauty spot to beauty spot listening to a CD that our hosts left for us by a local singer/songwriter/ski bum – Tahoe’s equivalent to Jimmy Buffet. The CD was a mixture of songs about Tahoe and spoken history, including stories of the white man’s discovery in 1844, the meaning of Washo (the original Native American name), and other local legends, myths, and tales of Lake Tahoe.
We took a couple of nice, short hikes into the peaks, including a lovely picnic lunch on a smaller lake that drains into Tahoe, as well as a sharp climb up to a great view over the entire lake – complete with our own little furry chipmunk friend. The highlight for both of us, besides maybe relaxing each evening in the hot tub overlooking the lake and rising full moon, was our kayaking trip.
After renting kayaks, we spent four hours paddling between the massive boulders and small coves on the Nevada side of the lake. Kayaking was definitely a great way to feel in tune with the lake and truly get a sense of the depth and clarity of the water. It was amazingly tranquil and was exactly what we were looking for. If we had had longer we definitely would have done it again on a different part of the lake.
We were hoping to see a bit more wildlife, but we settled with seeing a very friendly yellow lab (go figure), a curious chipmunk, a regal eagle (seen at a distance) and a ‘whale’ who you may find featuring in the slideshow below!
Experiencing Lake Tahoe was a great little getaway and we only wish we had had more time to enjoy the fantastic natural beauty of this beautiful blue giant!
Known as the ‘city of golden spires’ and the ‘mother of cities’, Prague draws you in with her meandering, magical, medieval streets and passageways. Best explored on foot, the city radiates a gothic charm infused with colourful grand buildings that would not be out of place on the splendid Parisian boulevards.
Prague is best known for the Charles Bridge, Astronomical Clock and the castle that dominates the northwestern ridge of the city. But the city is so much more. It is the winding streets of Malá Strana, the cluttered and chaotic Jewish Cemetery and the unknown lurking around every corner that really gives this city a beautiful soul.
The Charles Bridge is the lynchpin of any tourist experience. The now pedestrian only bridge was built by Charles IV and features numerous religious statues and beautiful lanterns. Protected by towers on either end, the bridge had a military role to play in past centuries but it is now the domain of tourists and small artisans selling their crafts.
The Charles Bridge is best explored at a slow walk, observing the statues, people and most importantly the views of the Vltava River, Prague Castle and numerous spires. This bridge has as many emotions as there are types of Czech weather and can be haunting in mist, romantic in snow and downright unpleasant in the howling rain.
Stretching away from the eastern side of the bridge is the ‘Old Town’. All streets will eventually take you to Staromêstské námêstí, the main square with the fabulous Astronomical Clock. This dual faced clock is not located atop the clock tower, but rather around the side of the tower and features an astronomical dial, hourly ‘walk of the apostles’ and a calendar dial.
Every hour a massive crowd forms below the clock to watch the new hour chime in.When the clock strikes the hour a skeletal figure representing Death begins ringing a bell suggesting that it is time go – in the eternal sense of the word. The other figures next to the clock shake their heads in disagreement while the 12 Apostles parade in front of two open windows above the clock.
After watching the clock’s show it is well worth the 100CZK (about £4) to ascend the tower itself. After taking the lift shaped like an old glass internal mail tube or climbing the sloped ramps and tight metal spiralled staircase you will be greeted with phenomenal views in all directions over the red terracotta rooftops. Although constantly bumped in the tight tower walkway, seeing this magical city from above is not to be missed, nor rushed. Anyone who happens to be atop the tower at the strike of an hour will have the pleasure of seeing the trumpeter play and wave to those massed below.
Wandering out of the Old Town Square it is easy to make your way to Vaclavske námêstí (Wenceslas Square).Although lined with souvenry shops and casinos the square is truly awe-inspiring. Stretching uphill nearly half a mile to the grandiose neoclassical Czech National Museum, this sprawling expanse of space leaves you unsettled following the cramped streets of the older areas of the city. A former horse market, the square dates back to the 14th century and is the traditional gathering place for large scale demonstrations and celebrations.
Beyond this square to the south lies the 10th century fortress of Vyšehrad and the more modern sections of the city. Ubiquitous amongst these areas are the concrete tower blocks of any major western city. Yet, unlike many ‘capitalist’ cities, many suggest that these tower estates have traditionally engendered a strong community setting and the residents take great pride in their buildings, encouraging those of all economic statuses to remain within these blocks.
Heading out of the Old Town Square in the opposite direction from Wenceslas Square you encounter the old Jewish Ghetto of Josefov. The centrepiece of this small sub-neighbourhood of Old Town is the old Jewish Cemetery. The burial ground dates from the 15th century and entombs as many as 100,000 people in 12 layers deep with perhaps 12,000 visible tombstones. Some stand proud and vertical, others jumble together like people huddling under an umbrella. The first feeling you get is of chaotic neglect, yet after delving deeper into the labyrinth you come to see a beauty in the haphazard nature of this sacred ground.
Surrounding the cemetery are several synagogues including the majestic Spanish Synagogue covered floor to ceiling in ornate paintings. Josefov is also home to the Old-New Synagogue, the oldest synagogue still being used in Europe today. Within this area you often come across three short stairs across the street at intersections which demarcate the old city walls.
Nestled between the river and the Castle is Malá Strana (Lesser Town). It is a lovely place to stay as the area is quieter and slightly less touristy than the other side of the river. There are numerous little streets and squares that beckon to be explored and post-dinner strolls are particularly worthwhile.
Leading up from Malá Strana are the Old and New Castle Steps. Whichever set of steps you choose to climb, amazing panoramic views of the city stretch out below the Castle walls. The Prazskíhrad (Castle) isn’t a castle with turrets and ramparts as you may expect, but rather a series of palaces, walls and gardens atop the hill. The centrepiece of the castle area is St Vitus Cathedral which towers above the surrounding buildings and is visible from almost anywhere in the central areas of Prague.
From the castle it is a lovely walk through yet more narrow, cobblestoned streets to the Stanhov Monastery, home to a magnificent library and locally brewed beers. The monastery borders Petrín Hill, a large wooded park that is perfect for walking amongst fallen autumnal leaves and sitting on benches enjoying the sun-speckled city below.
These are just some of the many wonderful experiences, places and vistas to be enjoyed in this magical city.Whatever you have time to explore, be sure to stop on the Charles Bridge and rub the statue of St John of Nepomuk which legend says will bring you back to Prague someday…
In desperate need of a holiday after several hard months, we took a week off and went to Wales and the national park of Brecon Beacons. We once again found a great little cottage within convenient reach of a train station – though this time much closer to a store, pub and chip shop. The place was really cosy and quiet and the owners were extremely hospitable and drove us to a larger shop where we could buy a few more substantial things – thank you Nichola!
The cottage is called the Coach House and sits on the grounds of a country estate – Pantybeiliau, which according to the owners was a hotel which enjoyed a rather seedy history before being bought by the previous owners as a weekend country escape from London. The house of the estate looked fascinating and certainly would have been interesting to explore – apparently the basement which still contains hanging chains!
We had dry but fairly cloudy weather the first two days, perfect for long walks of 10.5 and 9 miles respectively. The first day was up the 600 meter tall peak of Sugarloaf, which included some rather steep paths. For much of the walk it was just us, Guinness and sheep.
We saw a few people at the top, but it was still quiet enough to enjoy a bundled up lunch on the lee side of the mountain – out of the wind.
After tackling such an arduous peak on day one, we settled on a more relaxed walk along the Monmouthshire and Brecon canal. We walked the 3.5 miles down to Crickhowell, a lovely little village on the Afon Wysg (or River Usk in English).
Along the way we were lucky to come across some very dog friendly stiles which saved us the hassle of picking Guinness up and over each one.
We settled into the cosy Bear Hotel for lunch, which was extremely dog friendly and included a bowl of chicken for Guinness! He was quite surprised when the waitress placed it under the table in front of him, but he quickly recovered his senses and dug in.
After lunch, we took advantage of the many hills and valleys of Wales and managed a halfway decent climb in the afternoon, one that included a herd of curious cows, a few random collies here and there protecting their territory and the most secluded youth hostel we have ever come across.
The weather closed in on us after that and though it broke a bit on the fourth day, enough to climb up to the Lonely Sheppard, another 300 meter high ascent, we spent much of the week reading, working on photos, playing games, watching movies and preparing for the wedding shoot on Saturday. Guinness meanwhile enjoyed his long bouts of fresh air followed by wonderful long naps in between.
It was a great mix of relaxation and physical exertion, one that was desperately needed and enjoyed!
